Spread like a tidemark along the southeastern edge of the Korean peninsula, Busan (부산) is the rebel sibling to polished Seoul: rugged as its coastline and unapologetically boisterous. After all, the once-shabby provisional capital of the Korean War now has plenty to its name, including one of the busiest ports in the world and a world-renowned film festival.
There are so many things to do in Busan, and all of them will leave you in awe – but if you’re visiting for the first time, add these to your itinerary!
Short on time? This guided tour includes many of our recommendations.
IN THIS GUIDE
Busan’s history
During the Korean War from 1950-1953, Busan served as the provisional capital of South Korea and refugees across the peninsula fled here. The city was never captured by North Korean forces, but it was forever transformed.
P.S. If you enjoy learning about different countries through historical fiction, check out the novels If You Leave Me and Pachinko.
Stop by Busan Museum and UN Memorial Cemetery
Ancient Busan was part of the Silla Kingdom and served as a trading port with the Japanese even through Japanese rule in the 16th and 19th centuries. The land’s history of occupation and war means that few historical artifacts remain, but Busan Museum is a great starting point.
The museum is also located close to the United Nations Memorial Cemetery – the only one in the world. Here is where fallen UN soldiers from all over the world were buried and later repatriated, with around 2,300 graves remaining today.
See the Provisional Capital Memorial Hall
This nondescript building served as the official residence for South Korea’s first president, Rhee Syngman, during the Korean War. However, it was constructed far earlier in 1926, during the Japanese occuption, as the residence of the provincial governor. Hence, the building features the unusual Japanese colonial style more commonly seen in Taiwan.
Today, the building exhibits a reproduction of its interior during the war, and is worth a quick look on the way to Gamcheon Culture Village.
Explore Gamcheon Culture Village
Beneath the pastel-hued walls of Gamcheon Culture Village lies a poignant past. During the Korean War, Busan served as the provisional capital of South Korea and refugees across the peninsula fled here to various shantytowns, one of them being Gamcheon.
Even in the 2000s, the village continued to languish in poverty until the government decided to rejuvenate the area with public art installations, murals, and colorful exteriors for each home. Some empty buildings were also turned into museums, galleries, cafes, and gift shops, but Gamcheon Culture Village is still a residential area – so please refrain from making noise and infringing on locals’ privacy.
You can even stay here since there are a handful of guesthouses (but only one, Bangga Bangga Guesthouse, can be booked online max 2 months in advance.)
Climb (or ride) the 168 Stairs
Want to get the best view of Busan port? You’ll need to work for it. The 168 Stairs is a steep flight of stairs built so that residents of Choryang village, at the top of the hill, could quickly return after drawing water from the wells at the foot of the hill. It was only in 2016 that a small monorail was added to the 168 Stairs, making it easier for those with difficulty climbing to the top.
Visit Haedong Yonggungsa
Haedong Yonggungsa (해동 용궁사; “-sa” means temple) was one of the first places I ever visited in Busan, and it remains one of my favorites. While most of Korea’s Buddhist temples are located in forests and mountains, this “Dragon Palace” is an imposing presence on the clifftop above the thrashing waves.
If you can, visit at sunrise or on the night of a full moon for the most spectacular views. Breathtaking scenery aside, the road leading up to the temple is also lined with market stalls selling flowers, trinkets, and street food.
Nature in Busan
Soak up the sun on your choice of beaches
Busan’s beaches are a favorite for visitors. Haeundae Beach, the most famous of them all, is packed with sunbathers in the day while nighttime buskers, their music drifting on the sea breeze, draw throngs of boardwalk ramblers. But there are seven beaches in Busan, all alluring in their own way.
- Haeundae Beach. A tourist hotspot flanked by hotels and restaurants. South Korea’s biggest beach boasts excellent nightlife, but is the height of insanity in summer.
- Gwangalli Beach. Home to the magical Busan Fireworks Festival, it’s uniquely cordoned off by the Gwangan Bridge and offers a bed of fine, soft sand.
- Dadaepo Beach. Perfect for nature lovers. The beach is connected to Morundae, a craggy forested island-turned-peninsula thanks to alluvial deposits from the Nakdong River.
- Songdo Beach. This is officially South Korea’s first beach and fantastic for sightseeing, with the Busan Air Cruise scenic cable car taking you over water all the way to the clifftop Songdo Sky Park.
- Songjeong Beach, Ilgwang Beach, Imrang Beach. These are located along the eastern coast, further from the central urban districts, and see more local tourists than foreign ones.
Hike the sea cliffs at Taejongdae
The sea off Busan is as restless as it is beautiful, and the coastline bears witness to this: Most of it is jagged rock, hewn by waves or ground into shards of island. Of the many coastal geoparks in Busan (all of which feature picture-perfect hiking trails), Taejongdae Resort Park on Yeongdo is the best bet for families and casual sightseers.
For a leisurely visit, consider taking the Danubi Train. This colorful sightseeing tram will take you from the park’s entrance to all its main attractions, including the Observation Deck, Yeongdo Lighthouse, and Taejongsa Temple. Chances are, though, you’ll wish you could stop everywhere to take photos!
Seeking more adventures? Check out the best day trips from Busan (coming soon!)
Busan’s food
It’s no surprise that a coastal city like Busan is famous for its fresh seafood, from delicacies like sea urchin to famously weird creatures like hagfish. But Busan also boasts other delicacies, as well as a growing coffee scene.
Feast on fresh seafood at Jagalchi Market
Jagalchi Market (자갈치시장) is the largest fish market in South Korea, and is the home of the “Jagalchi Ajumma”, the older women who run the fish stalls in overwhelming majority. Ajumma have long been stereotyped as loud, pushy, brusque women who care little about their looks or image. However, a look at history reveals the challenges that the older generation of Korean women have had to overcome, from keeping their families alive in times of postwar poverty to rampant sexism in a patriarchal society.
Browsing the hundreds of outdoor and indoor stalls, you’ll encounter a mind-boggling variety of seafood that you can try simply by buying them and taking them to the second-floor dining area, where any of the restaurants will prepare your dish for you. My personal favorite is Gwangeo-hoe (광어회; olive flounder) sashimi, you might also know it as hirame in Japanese!
Where to stay in Busan
Griffinbay Hotel Staying here, close to Busan Station and Jagalchi Market, will allow you to wander the streets and soak up the local atmosphere. Guestrooms are equipped with a microwave, which is a nice extra, and you also have the choice of sea view rooms.
MAMA Guesthouse Haeundae This clean and pretty space offers privacy at a wallet-friendly price with private rooms, triples, and family rooms (sleeps four) with ensuite bathrooms – all a stone’s throw from Haeundae Beach.
Ananti Hilton Busan Best for a luxe retreat, this gorgeous hotel is located in the Ananti Cove resort and features an indoor pool with panoramic sea views, a wedding chapel, and hot springs. Our favorite part? Spending half the day at Eternal Journey, the resort town’s massive 1540sqm bookstore!
Getting around Busan
Getting around the city and its constituent islands usually means crossing at least one oversea bridge, with invigorating views as you zoom over the water. Luckily, Busan’s well-developed public transit systems offer fantastic coverage.
- Busan Metro: Since 2017, Seoul’s T-Money transit card has been integrated into Busan’s systems, so you can ride and reload with no problem in Busan.
- Busan public buses: Buses can be challenging to navigate if you don’t understand Korean. Google Maps does provide some information, but you’ll need to have a decent sense of direction as well.
WHAT’S NEXT?
Read more Korea guides:
- Inside Andong Hanji: Unfurling the Secrets of Handmade Korean Paper
- 10 Eye-Opening Cultural Experiences in Korea
- What to Explore in Busan: History, Nature, & More
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